Charles Henry Baker, Jr. (December 25, 1895 – November 11, 1987) |
Charles Henry Baker, Jr. was an American author best known for his culinary and
cocktail writings. Baker spent much of his life traveling the world and
chronicling food and drink recipes for magazines like Esquire, Town & Country, and Gourmet, for which he wrote a column during the
1940s called "Here's How".
Baker collected many of those recipes in his two-volume set The Gentleman's Companion: Being an
Exotic Cookery and Drinking Book, originally published in 1939 by Derrydale Press. John
J. Poister in 1983 wrote, "Volume II of The Gentleman's Companion, by
Charles H. Baker, Jr., is the best book on exotic drinks I have ever
encountered". Condé
Nast contributing
writer St. John Frizell wrote, "It's his prose, not his recipes, that
deserves a place in the canon of culinary literature ... at times humorously
grandiloquent, at times intimate and familiar, Baker fills his stories with
colorful details about his environment and his drinking companions — Ernest Hemingway and William Faulkner among
them".
I know there are recipes for white barbeque sauces, but
nothing like this. From the lack of
liquid, I assume this sauce is rather thick and heavy --I don't know much roasting juices you'd really get from grilling meat (I figure you could use stock or broth). The following
recipe is from Baker’s The Gentleman's Companion: Being an Exotic Cookery
Book (1939):
“THE AUTHOR’S OWN DEEP SOUTH BARBECUE SAUCE , for all
sorts of Miscellaneous Game such as ‘Coons, ‘Possums, Big Fox or Cat Squirrels,
Marsh Rabbits, Wild Shote & God Knows What Else of Dark Flesh, or Gamy
Flavour, or Both
We’ve been
hungry plenty of times on camp hunts, and seem to have eaten just about
anything that swims, flies or runs, through the Florida flatwoods, the pine
islands in swamps and Everglades, or in the vast sawgrass marshes. We’ve nourished on alligator tail, sand hill
crane, limpkin, crow, rattlesnake, ‘possum, ‘coon, wild razorback shote, pelican
and –credit it or not! – whippoorwill.
‘Coon, ‘possum, and big brown marsh rabbits are good eating, but have to
be smothered in a sauce hot and potent enough to disguise the gamey meat. This sauce is fine to add to the braising
pot half an hour before meat is tendered, or to work up while game is being
grilled, roasted, smothered, or what not.
Make it plenty hot with peppers.
1 lb odd trimmings from the animal
1 big chopped carrot
1 big chopped onion
½ tsp dry hot mustard
½ cup evaporated or fresh cream
4 tbsp butter
2 to 3 tbsp lemon juice or vinegar
1 to 1 ½ tbsp flour for thickening
1 piece yellow lemon peel
Salt and lots of black pepper
1 tsp or more of worchestershire
Soak strong meats as long as possible, overnight is best, in
strongly salted water, then use this sauce, made as follows: brown the chopped game trimmings, onion, and
carrot in 3 tbsp of the butter. Cream
mustard with a little gravy, and add to trimmings pan. Take some roasting juices from the meat from
time to time, and add –along with lemon juice and seasonings. Smother and simmer until rich; strain out
bones and sinew, pound vegetables fine, thin out with more of the cooking
gravy, reduce 1/3, and finally thicken with 1 tbsp flour and same of butter –worked
smooth—adding the cream at the last.”